Old Boards & New Faces

Its that time of year when old fat guys drag out their mals and hit the water again. (Actually I often surf in winter, but this year it just hasn’t happened.) I had a piece of good advice from a mate yesterday – ‘go have a surf because the world looks different after a surf’.

It has been six months since my last surf – way too long – and almost long enough for me to consider myself an ‘ex-surfer’. I wonder when you become an ex-surfer?…

But with a beautiful sunny day and light offshores I thought I’d give it a shake again and headed to The Spot

in Yanchep. I have been here a few times but never been really impressed with the place. The wave is really good, but its the aggro local scene that puts me off. I don’t enjoy sharing the water with people who want to pick fights and shoot obscenities at everyone else because they don’t live there. Its not the reason I go surfing…

Today began with Mr Aggro local (think of a pitbull with a goatie) ‘f’ing everybody in sight because they were his ‘f’ing waves… Not a good start… But with clean small waves and Mr pitbull out of the way it turned into a decent surf after all.

I’m at that point whereI wonder, ‘do I give surfing away?’ or do I really get back into it? Its probably the one sport that has always made me feel very alive, but that is partly because of the crazy adrenaline rush that comes from putting yourself in crazy positions. I’m not sure I’m up for that any more. I wish I were, but fitness is against me!

We’ll see what develops…

10 thoughts on “Old Boards & New Faces

  1. Mr Aggro local meets Mr White Pointer. . .

    “‘f’ing aggro surfers taste ‘f’ing foul, where are those tasty ‘f’ing endorphin flavoured ones?”

  2. Even though I ride a tea bag and proudly – I remember a tube I caught at Native Dog, Bremmer Bay – it was a tube where time slowed down, I’m talking minutes, my wife says seconds – give up? NO WAY!!! – ride on you old @@@@@@@!!!

  3. Hamo why not join a new board riders club me and a mate have started – it’s called “no fear” and is based on the premise that fear and fun don’t go together…..Like our tow-in brothers we to trawl the internet following wave and wind conditions (looking for vastly different things)and will drop everything to respond to the gentle call of “off shore, waist to chest height.” Your board also must be at least 9ft long and your hearing impaired to the point that you unfortunately can’t hear the young punks on their “tooth-picks” call you off the wave from deep inside.

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