Its not often you get to say that about the surf but today was just that.
sahara download After 3 weeks of rain we finally scored a sunny day, with light offshores, so Paul (another local church planter) and I launched the boat and made the 10km trip up to the Alikmos.
The reef we surf over is 2km out to sea so the effects of any wind is greatly exaggerated. Its easy to get a bad day up there, but a good one can be very rare.
Today was sensational.
Head-high waves, very light breezes and only 3 or 4 other guys made it one of the best surfs I have had in a loooong time.
We were going to take the camera and should have… but alas…
The only bad part was when my arms stopped working. After not having surfed for 6 months a couple of hours is way more than I can manage. I was about to paddle back to the boat but got suckered into one more wave… a left hander. I was so wiped I couldn’t paddle hard enough to get back out thru the lefts and had to paddle right around thru the right – probably another 2-3 hundred meters.
By the time I got to the boat there was nothing left in the arms!
It was great to hang with Paul too, another surf lover and all round good bloke (for a South African 🙂